Naples without pizza is unthinkable, so on our latest trip we too visited the oldest pizzeria not only in Italy, but in the entire world.
The Neapolitan pizza is the most famous in the world. Indeed, its technique has been recognized as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage and for that reason there is no better place than Naples to try the famed pizza with thin dough, an airy rim and a rich, flavorful sauce.
Walking through the historic center of Naples, along a picturesque narrow lane lined with bookstores, we come across a pizzeria with nearly 300 years of history. The entrance of Antica Pizzeria Port’Alba and the facade with the little balcony evoke a sense of nostalgia. It is said to be the oldest pizzeria in the world, as it was founded in 1738, here on Via Port’ Alba.
It started as a workshop where Neapolitans procured the famed pizza marinara, anchovy pizza, cicinielli (white sauce) or tomato and mozzarella (which was later officially called margherita). However, in 1830 the Luciano family shop took the form it has today, with tables, chairs and a mezzanine dining area.
It is even rumored that among its regular customers were some of the most important personalities of all time, such as King Ferdinand of the Bourbons. Two years ago, the mayor of Naples, Gaetano Manfredi, presented an honorary plaque to the owner and master pizzaiolo Gennaro Luciano, recognizing Antica Pizzeria Port Alba 1738 as the oldest pizzeria in Naples still operating.
Gennaro Luciano, a master of Neapolitan pizza, continued the family tradition by taking the helm of the pizzeria in 1982. Since then, he has won awards and distinctions and has taught his craft to chefs from America to Asia.
Dinner at the oldest pizzeria in the world
Via Piazza Dante we reached the historic Port’Alba gate, once known as Porta Sciuscelle, passed by the bookstores that were slowly closing and arrived at Antica Pizzeria Port’Alba. Fortunately, we had made a reservation in the previous days because as time went by, a queue began to form for the restaurant and some people left disappointed.
We tried the Maritata, the half-and-half pizza (Margherita and Marinara), as you will find it in other pizzerias in Naples too, with a generous sauce and an airy rim, which cost 9 euros. We also ordered the Ravioli di ricotta a limone, since lemons are abundant in the area and locals use them in their recipes, and of course we paired them with the famous Italian spritz.
The menu features a huge variety of pizzas -more than 50 different- with local ingredients and beyond, such as the classic Margherita and the traditional Cosacca, which dates back to 1844 and has tomato sauce (usually San Marzano), grated pecorino cheese (pecorino romano), olive oil and basil.
Popular options also include the famed Pizza Fritta, the fried version of Neapolitan pizza, pastas such as linguine with seafood, as well as gnocchi with mozzarella, while there are also meat or seafood dishes. The establishment operates at midday and from afternoon to evening. For those who do not find a seat or want to take food to go, there is a counter where you choose whatever you like, including the signature Pizza a portafoglio to go, folded like a crepe.
