We travel to Arcadia, the «mythical» destination in the heart of the Peloponnese, to discover stone-built villages with unique architecture, atmospheric guesthouses and landscapes of incredible natural beauty
Close, enchanting and mythical, Arcadia is a destination full of surprises. A journey to the heart of the Peloponnese reveals landscapes of singular beauty and villages that are true museums of traditional architecture, each with its own story to tell. Add to these the well-kept guesthouses and outstanding food, and you have one of the top Greek destinations.
The villages of Arcadia offer dozens of ideas for activities or relaxation and captivate even the most demanding visitor. One time is never enough. You will want to keep coming back to this place to discover yet another hidden treasure.
Starting from Tripoli
Base yourself in Tripoli for your excursions in Arcadia. The capital of the prefecture is a city filled with lovely squares, lush parks, many pedestrian streets and tasteful eateries with good food. It lies in the heart of the Peloponnese, just two hours from Athens. Areos Square with the statue of Kolokotronis, around which stand handsome neoclassical buildings such as the courthouse, Agios Vasilios Square with the elevated marble-clad metropolitan church whose ground floor houses shops, Petrinou Square with the Malliaropouleio Theatre surrounded by cafés and bars, and the lively Deligianni pedestrian street are some of the sure stops you’ll make. Worth seeing are the Archaeological Museum in a building by Ernst Ziller and the Tripoli War Museum, with relics and mementos from the struggles of the Greeks in various phases of modern history. In the wider Tripoli area lie two archaeological sites of outstanding importance, Mantineia and Tegea, which also merit a visit.
The jewels of Mainalo
Mainalo, rising to nearly 2,000m, is the very soul of Arcadia. Dominating the center of the Peloponnese, it stands out for its natural wealth and beauty. Every path on Mainalo, every spring, every village has a fairytale to tell.
At an altitude of 1,033m on Mount Mainalo, in a wooded area of pines, firs and chestnut trees, emerges Vytina, one of the most popular mountain villages of the Peloponnese. It was the first settlement to develop tourism thanks to its proximity to the Mainalo ski center. The church of Agios Tryfonas marks its square, around which you’ll find dozens of shops. The Road of Love, a stroll in the shade of trees that change color with the seasons, is the ideal romantic walk.
Dimitsana gives you the sense of how close you are to the Lousios River as it gazes from above over the plain of Megalopolis. Cobbled alleys, Byzantine churches and soaring mansions compose this historic village, designated a traditional settlement. The house of Germanos of Old Patras and the historic library that houses rare editions will appear along your way as you wander the picturesque lanes. Just outside Dimitsana, it’s worth stopping at the unique in Greece Open-Air Water Power Museum, which showcases the importance of water power in traditional society.
Just 9km further on, you’ll reach Stemnitsa, one of the loveliest Arcadian villages. Imposing tower houses, stone-paved lanes, Byzantine and post-Byzantine churches and stone fountains create a unique atmosphere. The ornate bell tower of Agios Georgios stands out from afar and will lead you to the beautiful and always lively main square. The village has a noteworthy folklore museum as well as the School of Silversmithing, one of the few in Greece.
Between Stemnitsa and Dimitsana, the historic Monastery of Timios Prodromos, built into the base of a sheer, towering rock, seems to hang over the Lousios Gorge. It is one of the largest and most beautiful monasteries in the Peloponnese. Also worth a visit is the Philosophou Monastery on the western side of the Lousios Gorge. The monastery consists of two complexes, one old and one new, located a short distance from each other.
Karytaina, built on the slope of a rock at the southwestern edge of Mountainous Arcadia, is a true gem of the area. It has been recognized as a traditional settlement, while its best-known sight is its castle - known as the ‘Toledo of Greece’ - which stands atop a precipitous rock above the village.
A lesser-known village between Stemnitsa and Karytaina, Elliniko, built over three verdant hills, has in recent years become an ideal destination for those seeking quiet escapes in nature’s embrace.
Lagkadia is also beautiful, a village famed for its exceptional stone builders and craftsmen. Built on a steep mountainside, it is known as the “hanging village of the Peloponnese” due to its location. The houses, churches, fountains and uphill cobbled lanes are true masterpieces of stone architecture.
Near Dimitsana, on the opposite side of the Lousios Gorge, lies Zatouna, an extremely picturesque village that charms visitors with the Gortynian architecture of its houses. Among its buildings stands out the old primary school, which today houses a museum dedicated to Mikis Theodorakis, who lived in Zatouna in exile.
Levidi, the first large village you’ll encounter when coming from Athens, will impress you with its stone-built houses and lively square. From here it’s worth visiting the ancient theater of Orchomenos, as well as the unique Kapsia Cave, ranked among the ten most notable caves in Greece.
Pleasing strolls await you in Magouliana (the highest inhabited village of the Peloponnese), Valtessiniko, Alonistaina, Limbovisi (Kolokotronis’ village), Piana and Chrysovitsi.
A fairytale lake
The artificial Lake Ladonas, between the Lagkadia mountains and Mount Aphrodision, is Mountainous Arcadia’s “secret”. If you’re seeking a quiet escape in nature, head to Ladonas to discover its serene, picturesque villages: Dafni, Kontovazaina and Dimitra. The Ladonas, the largest tributary of the Alfeios, was renowned since antiquity for the beauty of its landscape. Pausanias, who visited the area in the 2nd century AD, calls it the most beautiful river there is. Where Arcadia meets Achaia and Ilia, a place of virgin nature, welcoming guesthouses, stone bridges, a tranquil lake and many nature activities awaits you: from rafting on the river and canoeing on the lake to cycling along the banks and hiking the surrounding trails.
In the villages of Parnon
Mountainous Arcadia is not only Mainalo. It is also Parnon (at least a part of it), the mountain that separates Arcadia from Laconia. With stone-built villages of distinctive architecture, lush forests and scenes of wild mountain beauty, it’s an ideal destination for lovers of “gentle” mountain getaways. Kastanitsa is one of the most beautiful listed traditional settlements in the Peloponnese. Stone-built houses whitewashed with lime, wooden balconies and roofs of local slate, together with whitewashed paved lanes, give this village an idyllic and at the same time Aegean look.
Kosmas, known as the “balcony of Kynouria”, is a quiet traditional settlement tucked into Parnon’s southeastern slopes at 1,150m. It has stone-built houses and a beautiful square with huge plane trees, at the center of which rises the imposing church of Agioi Anargyroi.
Amphitheatrically built at 1,050m, near the road leading from Tripoli to Parnon, Ano Doliana is a doll-like village with pretty cobbled lanes, well-preserved stone houses and wonderful views over the Tripoli plain, Mainalo and Helmos.
It’s also worth strolling around impossibly picturesque Prastos, once the stately capital of Tsakonia. This village will charm you with its distinctive architecture, its tall stone tower houses with embrasures and arched gateways, and its churches.
From the mountains to the waters
Where North Kynouria meets the sea, in a lowland area near the Argolic Gulf coast, lies Astros, one of Arcadia’s most popular resorts. Paralio Astros delights with its stone houses, lovely square and small open-air theater where events are held in summer. The town is dominated by the Archaeological Museum with exhibits from the villa of Herodes Atticus (2nd century AD), which stands next to the famed Loukou Monastery.
If you want to combine mountain and sea, then Tyros is your next destination. It is 21km south of Astros and belongs to the historic region of Tsakonia where the Tsakonian dialect is still spoken. It’s a beautiful small town, half of it clinging to Parnon’s green spurs, the other half spread at the edge of the Myrtoan Sea.
“Kaour Ekokiáte”, that is, welcome, you will read on a sign greeting you in Leonidio in the Tsakonian dialect. This Arcadian town is built on the shores of the Myrtoan Sea, in Parnon’s shadow, about 90km from Tripoli. Leonidio’s most characteristic image is the sheer crimson cliff rising above the traditional settlement with its neoclassical and mansion houses.
The green of Parnon’s slopes and the crystal-blue waters blend harmoniously in the seaside village of Poulithra, 8km from Leonidio. Traditional architecture, a pretty little harbor, fish tavernas and the village’s pebbled beach with pristine waters create the perfect setting for quiet holidays.
Activities for everyone
At 15km long and about 2km wide, the Lousios Gorge is among Arcadia’s key attractions and one of Greece’s most awe-inspiring gorges. It’s a place of rare natural beauty and great history. Lush vegetation, old bridges, fulling vats and watermills create a gorgeous scene that captivates visitors. Crossing the gorge is a unique experience. A typical route starts from the new Philosophou Monastery, follows the path past the old Philosophou Monastery, then descends to the Lousios, climbs to the Prodromos Monastery and finally ends at Ancient Gortyna (about 2 hours). The Lousios River is also ideal for rafting enthusiasts and for those wishing to try the sport for the first time.
Ski lovers will certainly appreciate the Mainalo Ski Center, located on the Ostrakina plateau at 1,600m, below the mountain’s highest peak (1,981m). The ski resort features seven runs, three lifts, a snowboard park and a chalet.
MINI GUIDE TO ARCADIA
ACCOMMODATION
Vytina: A hundred meters from the center of Vytina, right where the famous “Road of Love” begins, Aigli offers 20 beautiful and spacious traditional rooms with views of the village center and forested Mainalo.
Aigli Hotel
The 20 rooms at Grand Vytina Hotel & Suites exude an atmosphere of relaxation and calm, while the amenities and modern comforts satisfy even the most demanding guests.
Art Mainalon is a hotel-gallery. Authentic artworks and sculptures by Greek and foreign artists adorn the rooms as well as the common areas.
On Vytina’s southern edge, on the picturesque street leading to the main square, the stone-built Thea Mainalou offers beautifully decorated rooms and impressive views.
Surrounded by Mainalo’s rich forest, just 3 minutes from Vytina’s center, Natura Hotel Vytina promises a pleasant and restful stay.
Elati Hills is a traditional two-story 160 sq.m. country house in the picturesque settlement of Elati, within a five-acre estate and beside the mythical Mylondas River.
Dimitsana: Built on a slope just below Dimitsana’s small theater, Baroutomylos is a gem of a hotel that elevates the art of hospitality with exceptional facilities.
Theonymfi Guesthouse sits on Dimitsana’s main square and offers four beautiful and spacious rooms, in the style of an old mansion.
At Lousiou Nymfes, luxury and simplicity blend harmoniously to offer you an unforgettable stay.
The traditional Despotikon Guesthouse awaits to offer you unique moments of relaxation in the center of Dimitsana with views over the entire mountain.
The stone-built Nerida Boutique Hotel, set in a unique location filled with the sights and sounds of the Lousios River’s flow, offers warm hospitality with wonderful views.
Recently renovated in the summer of 2019, the traditional Orizontes Guesthouse boasts superb views of the surrounding mountains, the Lousios ravine and the village.
Raftis: Dimitra’s Resort is a discreetly luxurious stone mansion in a traditional mountain village of Arcadia named Raftis, just 18km from Dimitsana.
Stemnitsa: At Stemnitsa’s entrance, Archontiko Kolokotroni offers warm Arcadian hospitality in 6 spacious, cozy and carefully decorated rooms.
The lovely Mpelleiko Guesthouse is a restored 17th-century stone mansion with traditional rooms and endless views of the verdant countryside.
Also in the village you’ll find Tsarbou Guesthouse, a warm haven of hospitality with touches of discreet luxury.
Valtessiniko: Petra & Elato Art Hotel by Georgios Vasilikos is in perfect harmony with the stunning mountain scenery and offers unrivaled views over the traditional settlement and the lush landscape.
Karytaina: Petra Thea Villa Karitaina is a stone-built villa ideal for families and groups of friends. It sits in a wonderful location beneath Karytaina’s medieval castle and next to the Alfeios and Lousios rivers.
Petra Vila Thea
Below Karytaina’s historic castle, in the heart of the village, the stone-built Vrenthi guesthouse offers 9 comfortable, fully equipped rooms and a charming cafe.
On Karytaina’s outskirts, a 10-minute drive from the Lousios River, Hotel Pelasgos features well-kept rooms and a restaurant serving local specialties.
Elliniko: Elaion Guesthouse is a traditional stone property with attractive rooms. It has a small farm as well as a playground for children.
Levidi: Perched on Levidi’s highest hill, near Vytina, Villa Vager revives the memories of the past with great respect and transports the visitor to another era.
The traditional Xenonas Epavli, built on Mainalo’s eastern slope, provides family rooms and a terrace with unique views.
Piana: Papanikola Guesthouse offers charming rustic rooms and a wooden terrace with stunning views of the Mainalo range.
Kardaras: The stone-built Nefeles Luxury Residences & Lounge offers elegant suites and villas with living room, fireplace and kitchenette.
Lagkadia: In a central location in Lagkadia, on the edge of a ravine, Kentrikon Hotel features simply decorated rooms with all amenities and a restaurant.
Ano Asea: In picturesque Ano Asea, on the settlement’s small square, Villa Soure is a historic mansion, restored to offer warm hospitality to guests.
Vlachokerasia: Foresta in Medias Mores is a brand-new complex built at 1,100m outside the mountain village of Vlachokerasia, 22km south of Tripoli.
Agios Ioannis: On a slope of the village of Agios Ioannis on Parnon, Abelos Villas offers stays in three stone villas you’ll never forget.
Tyros: Zen Minimal Luxury Housing is an award-winning property of high architectural design that provides eco-friendly, luxurious services and the finest hospitality.
Leonidio: Set in a unique location in Leonidio, Archontiko Hatzipanayioti blends today’s comforts with the rich history of this fertile land and its traditional architecture.
Tripoli: Mainalon Resort has presided over the heart of Tripoli since 1936. It consists of 30 rooms and one suite with tasteful decor.
A classic choice is the renovated Hotel Anaktorikon, directly opposite the Old Town Hall on the city’s main pedestrian street.
Palatinο Rooms & Apartments, in a privileged position, ensures quiet, views and at the same time immediate access to the city center.
FOOD
Vytina: At the “Deipnosofistes” restaurant of Art Mainalon you’ll enjoy fresh, high-quality, well-cooked dishes with local traditional products, handmade desserts and excellent wines. Kokkina Pitharia is a renowned restaurant that marries tradition with creative cuisine. At Klimataria, Vytina’s oldest taverna, they cook as if at home—be sure to try the pies with homemade filo and the cured pork.
Dimitsana: A constant value in Dimitsana is Kapileio ton Athanaton, a warm, unpretentious taverna with tasty food. Good options are also Kioupi and Drymonas. A longstanding stop for food lovers is the traditional little taverna Zerzova in the village of Panagia, a few kilometers outside Dimitsana.
Stemnitsa: On the village square, the traditional taverna Stemnitsa serves good grills and stews. Naturally, you’ll also stop at the traditional café Gerousia for tsipouro with fine meze and homemade sweets.
The trip is worth it to the village of Psari, very close to Stemnitsa, to eat at Arcadiani. Besides the fine restaurant, the multi-space includes a workshop producing traditional products and a cooking museum.
Levidi: Stop at the famed taverna-grill Koubouris for succulent spit-roasted pork with crackling skin, kokoretsi and kontosouvli.
Kastanitsa: In Kastanitsa you’ll eat well at the Stolidi taverna on the village square. Dishes with chestnuts and the stewed wild boar are especially good.
Kosmas: On the village square try boiled goat and pitaroudes (local herb pies) at the taverna Maleatis Apollon.
Tripoli: A constant value for good, home-style cooking is the taverna Klimataria Piteros, operating since 1933. Another noteworthy Tripoli restaurant is Villa Incognito, serving traditional flavors with modern touches.
