Bitter orange trees in bloom, people in the squares and impressive liturgies in historic churches create the unique backdrop of Easter in the city.
There were years when Athens emptied out completely at Easter, but these days that has changed. Tourists and locals fill the city center squares, the churches and the tavernas, giving the city an unexpected vibrancy. If you are a visitor or have stayed in the city these days, there is certainly much more to do than you might think. Stroll the narrow lanes of Plaka, admire the Acropolis, breathe in the scent of blooming bitter-orange trees in the neighborhoods, drive without traffic and enjoy a calmer, nostalgic version of Athens.
A reverent atmosphere
On Good Friday the city is transformed. The decorated Epitaphios processions of the churches in the historic center are impressive. Head to Thissio, where the procession of the Epitaphios of Agia Marina takes place on Dionysiou Areopagitou. For panoramic views, choose St. George on Lycabettus, while for tranquility the Kaisariani Monastery, with the procession moving through the lush green Hymettus Forest.
Don’t miss the First Resurrection on the morning of Holy Saturday at Panagia Kapnikarea, at St. Irene, or at St. George on Karytsi Square. On the night of the Resurrection, the Athens Metropolitan Cathedral puts on its finery and fills with people, with the melodies of the philharmonic accompanying the service. The Metochi of the Holy Sepulchre in Plaka feels as if time has stopped and remains a unique experience, as the Holy Fire arrives there from Jerusalem. Majestic too is the service at the beautiful Church of Saint Constantine in Omonia and at the Holy Church of the Archangels in Monastiraki.
Traditional flavors
Even during Holy Week, Athens culinary scene doesn’t stop. Fish tavernas such as Trata, Lakis and the ouzeri Lesvos offer Lenten meze, taramasalata and fresh seafood in a sunlit atmosphere that evokes summer. After the Epitaphios, head down to the neighborhood of Psyrri for meze at Atlantikos or Nikitas, with tables that spill out along the pedestrian street. Don’t forget to buy from the historic patisseries in the center the customary Easter tsoureki.
On the night of the Resurrection, if you are not cooking at home, you can enjoy traditional magiritsa at Ipiros in Varvakios or take it to go a day earlier from Vlassis, Filippou Restaurant or the cookshop Nostimies tis Mairis.
On Easter Sunday, for those who are not at a country feast with spits, the options are many. From traditional Rozalia in Exarchia to Agios Merkourios in Varympompi, you will find juicy lamb, kokoretsi and all the day’s goodies. The hotels in the center, such as GB Roof Garden, NJV Athens Plaza, Athens Capital and St. George Lycabettus serve festive menus with panoramic views and elegance. If you have the opportunity for a getaway you can take a nearby day trip.
Strolls and relaxation in the city
Empty Athens offers the opportunity for strolls along Dionysiou Areopagitou, in Koukaki and in Thissio. Sit for coffee around Ermou. enjoying the people watching in the squares or the view from the rooftops in the center with the Acropolis in sight.
Walk through the parks of Athens, the National Garden and Zappeion, Pedion tou Areos but also the Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center which is ideal for relaxation amid blooming gardens, with views of the sea. Ellinikon Experience Park, Tritsis Park and Hymettus also offer moments of calm within the city.
